All in Travel

The Colour of In Between

Last year started and ended with broken storylines. Lovers to dust. I found myself in strange, unchartered geography. Planned trajectories went feral on me. I was so desperate for meaning I took to hurling my body into crashing waves, half-hoping, perhaps, I would hit my head on the bottom of the ocean and emerge with The Truth on my lips. The waves bucked me off relentlessly, but I’ve learned nothing other than how to avoid calamity, turtling myself under a wave, or worst-case scenario, when slapped down by the palm of the sea, how to protect my soft mussel cranium from a surf-board-turned-missile. Maybe that’s the extent of what I’ve learned to be true: the waves are endless and indifferent to whether you’re up, or down, or somewhere in between.  

‘A Hard Land of Few Women’ - Sea Voyage to the Norwegian Arctic

I went expecting vastness and looking closely but – being an introvert – I didn’t realize how much the human element would impact me. We were writers, artists, musicians, scientists, polar bear guards, and the ship’s crew, from all over the world. Aboard the ship, our common space was very small. Our rooms were shared; eight by eight-foot bunks with a tiny little washroom cubicle. There was no place to go to be alone. Even when we reached land, we couldn’t go off alone because of the threat of polar bears. We were not out of each other’s company for two weeks.

The Wild Rover - Rowing the Inside Passage to Alaska

So why are you rowing to Alaska? What’s motivated you to go on this journey?

Gen: The stories that come out of it, the people that you meet. It’s not because I want to be alone in the wilderness, that’s never been the point. Actually, I’m doing this for the social aspect. In any other situation of your life, you’re not going to meet people and have these interactions. It’s truly about meeting people and seeing them in their natural habitats, catching them in their daily routines. And just working up a good appetite doing it, you know?

Travelling near and far

The rain on the cabin's tin roof reminds me of all of the places I've traveled where rain is both a season of longing and flooding. During the season of the flood, I can see us there, chased by the sudden downpour, huddled beneath a sheet of corrugated metal. This roof belongs to campesinos, farmers, who live beside the creek where our fishing lines were cast, waiting. A husband and wife beckon us into plastic chairs. The mujer stirs a pot of coffee on a wood stove. She adds spoon after spoon of sugar into the pot. Coffee so sweet you can taste it in your skull. 

Postcards from Haida Gwaii

“Calm waters today,” says the old woman sitting behind me. I turn around and look into a pair of watery blue eyes. The woman introduces herself as Marge. She’s in her eighties. She and her husband are traveling to the island to spend the holidays with her daughter’s family. Marge has taken the eight-hour ferry ride from Prince Rupert to Skidegate, and back again, more times than she can recall. 

Off grid writing

I sit in a dark cabin, propped up on an old, mildew covered sofa, with my bare feet inches from a blazing wood stove. The world outside is still dark although it’s nearly 9 o’ clock in the morning. There’s no electricity here, no running water.